Good day ter ye! After spending nearly 2 weeks in Scotland, the Scottish brogue felt quite natural-like. When we told friends we were headed to Scotland, they all gave us condolences about the food. Many think British food is bland—you know, fish and chips, meat and potatoes, that sort of thing. But I had read that the Scottish cuisine is a delightful mix of the best Scottish fare with a French flair. Frank and I definitely wanted to find out for ourselves.
Let’s get the big question out of the way first: is Haggis as nasty as it sounds? Haggis is a traditional Scottish food, made of sheep’s gut stuffed with oats and barley. (Description courtesy of the Highlander.) The Haggis at our guest house, the Gil Dun House in Edinburgh, tasted excellent—like a piece of well-seasoned sausage. We had unpleasant Haggis too; the canned stuff we brought home to the kids tasted disgusting. To me, though, the most disturbing Scottish food is blood pudding. Definitely based on a dare!
Fancy Fare
We splurged a few times on pricey restaurants with good ratings from our guidebook.* Definitely worth it!
For me, the most memorable meal took place in the Lime Tree Inn in Fort Williams. Since the town was in the middle of a motorcross tournament, we had to wait 3 days to get in to the restaurant. When we entered, I noticed the Michelin Star sticker on the doorway. The chefs are the stars here; with the kitchen in view, they prepare elegant meals. Presentation is half the experience, and our plates were so pretty I hesitated before touching my meal.
Pork cutlets with meat inside and a tangy sauce: The Lime Tree An Ealdhain Restaurant, Fort William.
Most memorable, besides the sauce, is the impressive dessert I ordered; Paris Brest. Now, I was pretty full already, but I wanted a little something sweet. Usually desserts are small to medium size, so I figured I was safe ordering a pastry. What came out of the kitchen surprised me: a 6-inch wide round pastry, filled with hazelnut mousse and dripping with rich chocolaty ganache. At this point, I had to ask for help. When I only had a few bites left, though, Frank tried to snag another piece and I parried his fork away. I was done sharing!
We were served another amazing meal at The Old Schoolhouse. Great atmosphere, location (on the Isle of Skye), service, and quantities. I ordered Langoustines (think small lobsters) with garlic butter. Frank, Ken and Joanna all ordered lamb shanks. Every meal was tender, the sauce flavorful, and the service top-notch. Again, so much food everyone but Frank got one of my langoustines. (He is allergic, I wasn’t holding any grudges because of the Paris brest pastry.) Also of note: we ordered elderberry sparkling juice that was delish!
Last but not least, the Contrast Brasserie in Inverness, situated on the River Ness, served some impressive dishes like Haggis topped with eggs and shrimp, and a scrumptious chocolate molten lava cake with raspberry sauce and cream.
Pub Food
Pub food is a good idea for a tasty meal that won’t break the budget. Many Scots recommended pubs to us, and they each have a favorite establishment.
Our first night in Edinburgh we walked to the Old Bell Pub, which has been featured on Rick Steeves shows. Cozy, plenty of food, and the lightest, crispiest batter I’d ever had on fish & chips. We liked their food so much we returned another night and ordered dessert first, then some truly Scottish appetizers. Haggis balls were the most memorable, though we tried blood pudding as well. Yuck!
While in Edinburgh, we visited Rosslyn Chapel, a true marvel of carving and fine workmanship. This chapel is featured in The Da Vinci Code.
The pub just a short walk from the gates featured some truly yummy fare, which is always plentiful and warms the soul. I had a sandwich, hot soup, and the customary pot o’ tea with Joanna. Frank & Ken tried the ginger beer and Haggis chips. The ancient stone pub’s warmth sucked us in. I could have fallen asleep in that comfy chair and stayed all afternoon!
On the Isle of Skye, we visited a lovely café that served tasty waffle burgers and fries. Portree is not a big town, and a cruise ship had just come in, so we ate here. The price was right, and a waffle sandwich is a novelty for us.
An upscale pub in Inverness served the most impressive halibut fish & chips. It literally curved up like a boat at each end, and Frank shared some with me (thanks, Frank!). Light and crispy batter and great crisp ‘chips’ (fries).
Moulin Pub in Pitlochry served the best Scotsman’s Bunnet I’ve ever had! Yes, I admit it was my first Scotsman’s bunnet. I just hope it won’t be my last. Warm, soft bread surrounded a savory, tender beef stew seasoned to perfection. Served in a small cast-iron pan, it came out piping hot. Frank got a lamb dish named after Edward Longshanks. He loved it. I think the most quaint detail about this pub, besides the food, is its age. **The Moulin Hotel and brewery have been serving guests since 1695. After dinner, we walked over to the church graveyard or ‘kirkyard’ to see the Crusader’s grave marker from the 1200s.
Resources:
* Lonely Planet Scotland & Rick Steves Best of Scotland
- Gil Dun House, Edinburgh
- Old Bell Pub, Edinburgh
- Rick Steeves Europe (Youtube)
- The Lime Tree An Ealdhain Restaurant
https://www.opentable.co.uk/r/lime-tree-an-ealdhain-fort-william
- The Old Schoolhouse (restaurant), Isle of Skye
https://www.facebook.com/The-Old-School-Restaurant-238805992823005/
- Contrast Brasserie, Inverness
- Moulin Hotel, Pitlochry
Movies:
The DaVinci Code
The Highlander
So I married and Axe Murderer
Good day ter ye! After spending nearly 2 weeks in Scotland, the Scottish brogue felt quite natural-like. When we told friends we were headed to Scotland, they all gave us condolences about the food. Many think British food is bland—you know, fish and chips, meat and potatoes, that sort of thing. But I had read that the Scottish cuisine is a delightful mix of the best Scottish fare with a French flair. Frank and I definitely wanted to find out for ourselves.
